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Trip Overview – 8 Days in Central Vietnam covering Lang Co, Hue and Hoi An

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We spent 8 days in Central Vietnam in September 2017, just before the rainy season (October to February) which usually causes floods in Hoi An. We flew into and out from Da Nang city. Da Nang is the gateway to Hue and Hoi An, known for their UNESCO World Heritage sites. It is also the gateway to many beach-front luxury resorts, with Banyan Tree Lang Co being one of the best.

We spent 2 days at Banyan Tree Lang Co, 2 days in Hue and 4 days in Hoi An. Most people will prefer to spent more time in beautiful and historic Hoi An and skip Hue. I decided to stay a couple of days in Hue, a UNESCO World Heritage city well-known for its historic imperial city (Citadel) and imperial tombs.

Like Hue, Hoi An has plenty of history still intact. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Hoi An was a small scale trading port in Southern Vietnam. The old town has many well-preserved buildings that reflects both indigenous and foreign cultures, especially Chinese, Japanese and later European. These places include houses of prominent people, assembly halls, communal houses, shrines, temples, bridge, market and wharf. Hoi An was included in UNESCO World Heritage list in 1999.

Most visitors to Hoi An planned at least a 3-days stay. There is plenty to do at Hoi An. For those looking to make cheap and good suits, Hoi An has many tailor shops that can provide custom-made suits within 3 days. A beautiful beach is within reach by bikes or taxi from the town center. The rural countryside around the Hoi An town is also nice to explore using bikes.

Since we had already spent some time at a beach resort and had already seen a bit of rural Vietnam, we skipped these activities in Hoi An. Our activities included an early morning private tour to Mỹ Sơn, a half day cooking class at Thuan Tinh Island, sampling the local Hoi An cuisine, shopping and exploring the ancient town.

The following summarises my itinerary and where we stayed.

Day 1 (23 September 2017)

This day was spent travelling from home to Da Nang International Airport. We were picked up by staff from Banyan Tree Lang Co and transferred to the beach-front luxury resort for our weekend of bliss and pampering.

Banyan Tree Beach Villa

Banyan Tree Beach Villa


Where we stayed: Banyan Tree Lang Co 

Trip report – Our stay at Banyan Tree Lang Co


Day 2  (24 September 2017)

There are plenty of activities to keep guests occupied within and outside the Banyan Tree resort. These include cooking classes, golf, yoga, excursions to Hue or Hoi An, cycling, water sports or just enjoying the villa facilities.

My wife did “yoga by the beach” at 6 AM, followed by breakfast. As part of the Banyan Tree Community Reward Stay programme, we were treated to an eco-tour of Lang Co

Vietnamese fisherman on sampan

Exploring rural Vietnam in an eco-tour.


The itinerary included a visit to a nearby fishing village in Canh Duong where we learnt about the hard life of the local fishermen, navigate through mangroves in a traditional basket boat, see the beautiful Lap An lagoon and also travel along a winding road up the Hai Van Pass, a journey made famous by an episode of a popular TV programme Top Gear.

Where we stayed: Banyan Tree Lang Co 


Day 3  (25 September 2017)

More free and easy activities at the Banyan Tree Resort before checking out. The award-winning Banyan Tree Spa is not to be missed.

We used the private car transfer service provided by the resort to travel to Hue.

Entrance to the Imperial Palace at the Citadel, a UNESCO world Heritage site.

Entrance to the Imperial Palace at the Citadel, a UNESCO world Heritage site.


After checking into our hotel in Hue, we did the walking tour of the Citadel, a UNESCO world Heritage site.

Where we stayed in Hue: Saigon Morin Hotel.

The Saigon Morin Hotel is a historic, French colonial-era hotel, located next to the Truong Tien Bridge and Perfume (Huong) River. On Le Loi Road in the city center, it is ideally located for walking to the Citadel, Dong Ba market, shopping, restaurants & bars.

Trip Report - Visit to the Citadel in the city of Hue at Central Vietnam


Day 4  (26 September 2017)

The tomb of Tu Duc or Khiem Tomb

Lake at the tomb of Tu Duc or Khiem Tomb.


We allocated our second day in Hue to visit three of the most impressive tombs of Nguyen emperors. Some of the tombs actually served as palaces and living spaces for their families when they were very much alive.

The best way to visit the tombs was to hire a private taxi with an English-speaking driver for the whole day so we could visit these places at our own pace, while the taxi waited for us outside. In addition to the 3 tombs, we also made a stop at the Thien Mu pagoda.

Where we stayed in Hue: Saigon Morin Hotel.

Trip Report – Our stay the Saigon Morin Hotel

Trip Report - Three Tombs and a Pagoda. Must see sights in Hue, Central Vietnam


Day 5  (27 September 2017)

After Hue, our next destination in central Vietnam is Hoi An. The best way to travel between Hue and Hoi An is to hire a private car with a driver for a day to take us through peaceful rural landscapes, scenic coastal route across the Hai Van Pass and make sightseeing stops along the way. 

Lap An lagoon

Lap An lagoon


The 128 km journey would take about 3 hours of driving, excluding stops. With stops for lunch, sightseeing and taking photographs along the way, we could depart Hue in the morning and arrive at Hoi An in the evening.

Most private taxi operators’ itineraries include suggested stops at My Khe Beach in Da Nang, Marble Mountains, Lang Co beach, Lap An lagoon, top of Hai Van Pass or even an optional stop (with additional fees payable) at a swimming place called the Elephant Springs.

the famous tiled-roofed Thanh Toan Bridge, located 8 km east of Hue city

The famous tiled-roofed Thanh Toan Bridge.


I requested for an additional stop at the famous tiled-roofed Thanh Toan Bridge, located 8 km east of Hue city. Tour From Hue – Family Car Transfers & Tours was happy to include that into our itinerary without additional charges.

Spent the evening at Hoi An riverside. Not to miss is the night market with many stalls and colourful lanterns for sale.

Night market with many stalls and colourful lanterns for sale.

Night market with many stalls and colourful lanterns for sale.


Where we stayed in Hoi An: Tea Garden Homestay. This relatively low cost, family operated guesthouse is located close to the Hoi An Ancient Town and is perfect for exploring this historic town on foot.

Trip report - Scenic road trip from Hue to Hoi An, via Hai Van Pass, Da Nang and Marble Mountains


Day 6  (28 September 2017)

We attended a half day cooking class in Hoi An on our first morning. There are many cooking schools providing half day classes in Hoi An. I signed up with Thuan Tinh Island Cooking School, partly because of good reviews and partly because of recommendation from my relatives who visited Hoi An before.

The rest of the day was spent free and easy exploring the sights and cuisine of Hoi An.

Trying the street food in Hoi An

Trying the street food in Hoi An


Where we stayed in Hoi An: Tea Garden Homestay.

Trip report - Visit to Hoi An’s morning market and cooking class at Thuan Tinh Island

Trip Report - What and where to eat while in Hoi An

Day 7  (29 September 2017)

Ruins at My Son Sanctuary

Ruins at My Son Sanctuary

A visit to Hoi An would not be complete without a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage cultural site of Mỹ Sơn. My Son Sanctuary was once the religious and political capital of the Champa Kingdom who ruled Central Vietnam from 4th to 15th century.

It is best to go early in the morning when it is much cooler and there would be less people at the site. We signed up for the Sunrise My Son Tour with Tommy Dao Tours with pick up from our hotel at 5 AM! Sacrificing a bit of morning sleep is well worth it.

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Exploring Hoi An ancient town


We arrived back to Hoi An at about 10 AM in the morning. The rest of the day was spent exploring the cuisine and shopping in Hoi An at a leisurely pace. The ancient town and Thu Bon river side area is very beautiful at night when the lanterns are lit.

Hoi An riverside in the evening.

Hoi An riverside in the evening.


Where we stayed in Hoi An: Tea Garden Homestay.

Trip report - Visit to My Son Sanctuary, Champa ruins near Hoi An and Da Nang

Trip Report - Enjoying UNESCO World Heritage Hoi An in the evening


Day 8  (30 September 2017)

Japanese Bridge at Hoi An

This is another free and easy day for us to explore Hoi An ancient town. One of the highlights of visiting Hoi An is to explore the insides of some of these places.

Insides of one of the assembly hall in Hoi An

Insides of one of the assembly hall.


We bought a ticket for the ancient town with 5 coupons that allows entry into 5 historical places of our choice.

Where we stayed in Hoi An: Tea Garden Homestay.

Trip Report - 5 places to visit while exploring Hoi An’s UNESCO World Heritage old town

Trip report - 4 free and easy days in Hoi An

Day 9 ( 31 September 2017)

Travel from Hoi An to Da Nang Airport for our morning flight home.


Other trip planning tips and considerations

Buy a Data SIM card in Da Nang International Airport

A 30 day data SIM with unlimited data, LTE, from Viettel cost USD 5.5, a fraction of the price compared to what we had to pay in most countries. The card can be purchased in the luggage collection area of the airport. The staff even helped us to install and activate the card.

Buy a combo ticket when visiting the Citadel and the Imperial tombs in Hue.

Entry to the Citadel and the various Imperial tombs are chargeable. We saved some money by buying a combo ticket instead of paying the entrance fees to each place separately. This combo ticket is sold at the ticket booths outside these places.

Note: Entry to the Thien Mu Pagoda is free.

While there are group tours to the above places that cost less, we prefer to travel at our own pace. Public transport within Hue is almost non-existent and imperial tomb sites are distributed all over the outskirt of Hue city. It made sense to hire a private taxi with an English-speaking driver for the whole day so we could visit these places at our own pace and with less hassles.

Stay near the Hoi An ancient town

While there are many places to stay in Hoi An, the best way to explore and enjoy Hoi An is on foot or bike. Hence, we felt that the ideal place to stay should be within walking distance to the ancient town and riverside area. The September weather in Hoi An is hot, humid and unpredictable. Once the weather gets too hot in the afternoon, we would seek shelter in a cool cafe or head back to the cool air-con comfort of our nearby hotel to rest before venturing out again in the cooler evening.

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Pampered by Banyan Tree Lang Co at Central Vietnam

We arrived at Da Nang International Airport in Central Vietnam at about 6 PM, after a 4 hours and 15 minutes journey by Silkair from Singapore via Siem Reap, Cambodia. My wife and I were invited guests of Banyan Tree Lang Co, under the Banyan Tree Community Reward Stay programme from September 23 to 25.

We were greeted by a couple of slim ladies dressed in the purple ao dai (Vietnamese traditional long gown), before being shown the way to a waiting van that took us from the modern Da Nang Airport to the heavenly resort by a secluded beach north of Da Nang. We were part of a group of 4 couples that arrived on this flight, all bound for a weekend of bliss and pampering at Banyan Tree Lang Co.

Our van made its way slowly through the narrow streets of Da Nang, giving us a glimpse of Da Nang city at night before entering the Hai Van Tunnel, the longest tunnel in Southeast Asia at 6.28 km. Once past the tunnel, it was an hour long journey through the dark countryside. If we had arrived earlier, we would be able to see scenic vistas of rice paddies, grazing water buffaloes, cloud covered mountain ranges and even a lagoon en-route.

We were warmly greeted by the manager, Mr Sree Valsan, and staff of Banyan Tree Lang Co upon arrival.  Each guest was presented with a long stalk of lotus flower, signature flower of Vietnam, before being whisked to our villa, on an electric powered golf cart or “buggy” as they called it here, through pathways lit by colourful Chinese lanterns.

Checking in was done in the comfort of our luxury Beach Pool Villa, one of the 17 that lined the shores of a private red sand beach. The best villas of course were the 1, 2 or 3 bedrooms Seaview Hill Pool Villas, perched high up on a rocky spur that provides panoramic views of the East Sea, followed by the Beach Pool Villas and the Lagoon Pool Villas, built round a lagoon offering water activities.


The spacious bedroom of the Beach Villa at Banyan Tree Lang Co with a King size bed. The bath area is behind the large screen with pictures of the lotus flowers, a study area with long writing desk, welcome fruit basket.

The spacious bedroom of the Beach Villa at Banyan Tree Lang Co with a King size bed. The bath area is behind the large screen with pictures of the lotus flowers and a study area with long writing desk.


Bath area with basins and toiletries at Beach Villa at Banyan Tree Lang Co

Bath area with individual basins and toiletries for Him and Her. There was much attention to details; down to the sizes of the bathrobes, sandals and even which side to place our luggage when they were delivered to our villa.


Each villa has an assigned villa host, whose job includes ensuring that we enjoy a personalised and unforgettable experience.  Our villa host served us a welcome drink, cold towels, did the check-in paperwork and ran us through the itinerary of our stay, including the timings of the yoga and spa sessions we had booked prior to arrival.  She advised us on some changes in the programme and that we would be going for a guided tour of Lang Co area the next day instead of a visit to a nearby village school.

A sumptuous multi-course dinner at the Azura restaurant soon followed. We were served by the staff of Seedlings, a restaurant operated by Banyan Tree in the UNESCO World Heritage Hoi An ancient town. Banyan Tree is engaged in many projects to support the local community and Seedlings is a company-wide mentorship programme for helping under-privileged young people. All staff members are from marginalised backgrounds and the training provided by the restaurant helps them build vocational skills for a successful career. The food with a fusion of contemporary and classical Vietnamese influences, and drinks was excellent and the impeccable fine dining service provided was flawless.

Another community project is the Green Imperative Fund where guests could donate US$2 per room per night, which Banyan Tree matched. This fund is used to finance environment conservation and community projects.

Guests are encouraged to contribute to the Banyan Tree's Green Imperative Fund and we get to keep the stuff toy sea turtle as a keepsake.

Guests are encouraged to contribute to the Green Imperative Fund. We could keep the stuffed toy sea turtle as a keepsake. Another sea turtle to add to my Banyan Tree collection.


After dinner, we made a stop at the main lobby to change some money to Vietnamese Dong. We would need the local currency when we visit the two UNESCO World Heritage sites of Hue and Hoi An after our stay at Banyan Tree. Both of these cities are located about one and half away by car, with Banyan Tree located right in the middle of both.

Lobby at the Banyan Tree Lang Co

A large pool with water lilies, floating lanterns at the lobby at the Banyan Tree Lang Co.


We decided to take a slow walk back to our villa instead of using the buggy as the resort is so beautifully lit by colourful lanterns at night.

Colourful lanterns hang from trees and over a river that flows through the property

Colourful lanterns hang from trees and over a river that flows through the property.


We could appreciate that the architecture and decor of the resort reflects Vietnam’s Imperial past and the historical Chinese influence in the area.

The bridge across the river at Banyan Tree Lang Co is modelled after the famous Japanese bridge found in Hoi An ancient town and is also beautifully lit by lanterns.

The bridge across the river is modelled after the famous Japanese bridge found in Hoi An ancient town and is also beautifully lit by lanterns.


There are plenty of activities to keep guests occupied within and outside the resort. These include cooking classes, golf, yoga, excursions to Hue or Hoi An, cycling, water sports or just enjoying the villa facilities.

My wife had signed up for the “yoga by the beach” the next day at 6 AM. Our villa host had taken the initiative to arrange for a buggy to pick us up at 5.45 AM from our villa.


Map of Banyan Tree Lang Co

The ever efficient buggy system within most Banyan Tree properties is the best way to travel within the spacious and well planted resort. Alternatively free bicycles are available for those who wish to burn some calories and explore the resorts and its vicinities at leisure.


Yoga by the beach, under the watchful eye of an instructor.

Yoga by the beach, under the watchful eye of an instructor.


The yoga is conducted at Moomba Lawn, in the premises of Angsana Lang Co, located just next to Banyan Tree.

Private beach shared by the Banyan Tree Lang Co and Angsana Lang Co Resorts.

Private beach shared by the Banyan Tree and Angsana Resorts.


The Seaview Hill Pool Villas of Banyan Tree Lang Co, perched high up on a rocky spur that provides panoramic views of the East Sea could be seen in the back.

The Seaview Hill Pool Villas, perched high up on a rocky spur that provides panoramic views of the East Sea could be seen in the back.

View from the lobby of the Angsana Lang Co resort.

View from the lobby of the Angsana Lang Co resort.


lobby of the Angsana Lang Co resort.

Lobby of the Angsana Lang Co resort. The Banyan Tree is positioned as an exclusive, ultra-luxury, “romantic escape” theme resort while the Angsana is positioned more for couples, families and friends.

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Colourful lanterns in the lobby of Angsana Lang Co. Such lanterns are a feature in both resorts.


Both resorts are operated by Banyan Tree and shared the same 3 km long private beach, as well as the river that flow through both resorts. Kayaks and other water craft to explore the river are available for those with plenty of energy!

River boats providing an alternative means of transport between the Banyan Tree and Angsana resorts.

River boats providing an alternative means of transport between the Banyan Tree and Angsana resorts.


Breakfast at the Banyan Tree’s Watercourt restaurant was excellent. We get to order our eggs, cooked in any of the six different ways, plus the usual breakfast spreads. In addition, there are local delights like spring rolls, steamed buns, beef pho, Bun Bo Hue, local fruits in season (dragon fruit) and rounded off with a glass of Taittinger champagne and cheese.

As part of the Banyan Tree Community Reward Stay programme, we were treated to an eco-tour of Lang Co after breakfast.  The itinerary included a visit to a nearby fishing village in Canh Duong where we learnt about the hard life of the local fishermen, navigate through mangroves in a traditional basket boat, see the beautiful Lap An lagoon and also travel along a winding road up the Hai Van Pass, a journey made famous by an episode of a popular TV programme Top Gear. 


Explore Lang Co's beautiful lagoons and the local fishing village, navigating through the mangroves in a traditional basket boat.

Explore Lang Co's beautiful lagoons and the local fishing village, navigating through the mangroves in a traditional basket boat.


Our guide, named Hung, was a knowledgeable young man from Hoi An. I was able to learnt so much about history of Vietnam, Hue and Hoi An during this tour.

We learnt that Banyan Tree hired 70% of staff locally, created jobs and add value for the local community. Most of the staff was from nearby villages, neighbouring cities like Hue and Hoi An or other parts of Vietnam. They lived in the village of Lang Co, a short distance away. Most of their needs are provided by the hotel, including free hourly transport service to and from the village.

We headed back to Banyan Tree's signature restaurant Saffron for Sunday Brunch after the tour. Our group was a bit late for a brunch due to a traffic incident on the way back. No problem. The restaurant extended their operating hours till 3.30 PM. Just for us.

View from Saffron Restaurant, Banyan Tree Lang Co.

View from Saffron Restaurant, Banyan Tree Lang Co.


Perched on a cliff overlooking the resort property, Saffron offers delicious Thai cuisine and magnificent views.

We had free time to enjoy the facilities of our Beach Pool Villa in the afternoon till it was time for dinner. The exterior of the Beach Pool Villa is surrounded by lush trees shielding wooden fencing from sight, offering privacy and a sense of openness.

Banyan Tree Lang Co. Private pool, lounge chairs, parasols, outdoor showers and jacuzzi at the doorstep of the luxury villa.

Private pool, lounge chairs, parasol, outdoor showers and Jacuzzi at the doorstep of the luxury villa.


A footpath led to the beach but who needs the beach when we had our own private pool, lounge chairs, parasols, outdoor showers and jacuzzi at the doorstep of the luxury villa.

Dinner on the second day was hosted by Mr Valsan, the manager of Banyan Tree Lang Co, in a private room at the Watercourt restaurant where we enjoyed the interactions with our host and other Community Programme guests. We were also treated to performances from a local musician playing a uniquely local instrument made from bamboo.

Dinner performance at Banyan Tree Lang Co

Making music from bamboo stems!


Returning to our villa after dinner, we were pleasantly surprised by the special turn-down service delivered by the housekeeping team.

special turn-down service delivered by the housekeeping team.

special turn-down service delivered by the housekeeping team at Banyan Tree Lang Co. Artistic work with flower petals

The award-winning Banyan Tree Spa is not to be missed. We had time for a 90 minutes full body massage on our last day before check-out. Once again, the spa treatments at Banyan Tree Spa did not disappoint.

Alas, all good things must come to an end. We checked out from this ultra-luxury resort, said goodbye to our villa host, and enjoyed a luxury private car transfer from the resort to our next hotel, in Hue.


Vietnamese countryside near Banyan Tree Lang Co

Vietnamese countryside near Banyan Tree Lang Co


We got to see the views we missed on our arrival day on our way to Hue. Scenic vistas of rice paddies, grazing water buffaloes,   mountain ranges and lagoons.

It had been an amazing weekend at the Banyan Tree Lang Co. We will certainly be looking forward to visiting other Banyan Tree properties in the near future.


Disclosure: My wife and I were privileged invited guests to Banyan Tree Lang Co, under the Banyan Tree Community Reward Stay programme from September 23 to 25. This blog post is voluntary and all views and opinions are my own.

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Tour of the Canh Duong area from Banyan Tree Lang Co

24 September 2017  

While staying at Banyan Tree Lang Co, we joined the eco-tour of the Canh Duong area, organised by the hotel.

In the tour group were other hotel guests, plus a group of young men and women from the hotel’s reservation team and our guide named Hung who spoke excellent English. 

Our first stop was at a fishing village a short drive away. A few local fishermen were waiting to take us for a ride on the iconic round “basket boat” or thung chai.

a ride on the iconic round “basket boat” or thung chai.

Local Vietnamese fisherman preparing the basket boats to take us for a tour of the waterways and lagoon near Lang Co.


Hung told us that this basket boat was invented during the French colonial era. When French arrived in Vietnam, they began to levy a tax on the ownership of boats. Most of the poor Vietnamese fishermen who depended on boats for their livelihood could not afford to pay the taxes. So, the ingenious Vietnamese invented a new type of “boat” woven from bamboo strips and coated with tar for waterproofing. This round basket “boat” is functional but technically not a wooden boat, so escaped the tax. Ingenious.

fast moving and agile round “basket boat” or thung chai

Look at the wake created by this fast moving basket boat!


We sat on the edge of the basket boat, up to 4 persons per boat. We found that the thung chai is surprising agile and fast.

I watched the teenage boy who was rowing my thung chai and learnt the technique. The proper technique is to move the paddle back and forth through the water in an arcing motion at the “front”. I was given the chance to row the boat. My boat did not spin round in circles and actually made relatively good progress for a first timer. 

Part of the maintenance required is the yearly re-coating of the tar and my boat was overdue for maintenance! It was leaking a bit and some bailing with a small white hand-held bucket was required.

Water at the bottom of the leaky “basket boat” or thung chai.

Water at the bottom of the leaky “basket boat” or thung chai.


We were given the chance to catch some fish using the floating gills nets. These nets were laid across the flow of the slow flowing river to trap fishes swimming up or down stream.

A chance to catch some fish using the floating gills nets from the thung chai.


We let out the nets from our round basket boats. We would come back to haul them up later to check if we caught anything.

Life as a fisherman in this area is tough. After an hour in the sun, we caught nothing but a few small crabs and a couple of small fish. Most of the catch is sold locally or made into fish sauce.

We chat with the teenage fisherman who was rowing my boat. He speaks a little English, having learnt it in the village school. He is the youngest son of the fisherman and his wife who are rowing the other two basket boats. He is the only one in the family learning the fishing trade from his parents. Like most young Vietnamese, his older siblings prefer working in the cities compared to the hard life of a fisherman.

An easier way to catch fish in the Vietnamese river would be by using the square lift nets.

Square lift nets commonly found in rivers of Vietnam.

Square lift nets commonly found in rivers of Vietnam.


The net is lowered into the water at sunset. Lanterns are lit during the darkness to attract the fishes and crustaceans. The fisherman will raise the net before sunrise to catch the fishes having a party below the lights. There is a small opening at the centre of the huge net that could be opened to allow easier harvesting of the catch. Once again, ingenious!

Tour of the mangroves and river on the eco-tour.

Our excellent guide giving us plenty of information during our tour.


We had a fun time on the river, including time to inspect wild oysters growing on the roots of the mangrove trees and listening to Hung, our knowledgeable guide who shared plenty of insights to life in Central Vietnam, including stories, history and tips for visitors to Hue and Hoi An.

Our next destination is the Hai Van Pass. On the way there, we made a short stop by the Lap An lagoon and a lookout point where we could see the place where Lap An lagoon meets the sea.

Lap An lagoon with cloud-covered mountain range in the back.

Sampan boats on the Lap An lagoon with cloud-covered mountain range in the back.

Lap An lagoon with cloud-covered mountain range in the back.


Lookout point where Lap An lagoon meets the sea. Lang Co beach, with its fine white sand, is the best beach along the coast of Central Vietnam.

Lookout point where Lap An lagoon meets the sea. Lang Co beach, with its fine white sand, is the best beach along the coast of Central Vietnam.


Here, we could see the long stretch of white sand beach that is the Lang Co beach. Hung told us that this stretch of Lang Co beach, with its fine white sand, is the best beach along the coast of Central Vietnam.

Next to the road and running along the coast is the tracks of the narrow gauge railway. This is for the only train service linking the north and south of Vietnam. Travel from Hanoi in the north to Ho Chi Minh City would take about 34 hours, covering a distance of 1726 kilometers. Slow but scenic ride if one has plenty of time to spare.

The lookout point marks the start of the road up Hai Van Pass. Hai Van Pass is situated along the Hai Van mountainside between Hue and Danang. With a height of 500m above sea level, and a length of 21km, this is the highest and longest pass in Vietnam.  It crosses over a spur of the Truong Son mountain range that juts out into the sea and serves as a geological and geographical dividing line. It forms a physical boundary between the north and the south of Vietnam, and has been considered an important strategic frontier post along the north-south road in the past.

“Hai Van Pass” is translated to mean “Ocean Cloud Pass”. Hai Van Pass probably get this name as the peak of the mountain is mostly covered in clouds while its foot is close to the sea.

Old architectural relics at the top of Hai Van Pass.

Old architectural relics at the top of Hai Van Pass. The tallest brick structure is the Hai Van Gate.


There were stalls selling souvenirs, drinks and snacks at the car park at the top of the pass. We went straight up a path on what used to be a rampart to an architectural relic that was once the Hai Van Gate, built in 1826, during the reign of Emperor Minh Mang.

This gate used to control access between Hue (the ancient capital city) and the southern part of Vietnam.

Hai Van Gate, built in 1826, during the reign of Emperor Minh Mang.

Hai Van Gate, built in 1826, during the reign of Emperor Minh Mang.


The side of the gate facing Thua Thien-Hue Province is inscribed with the 3 words “Hai Van Quan” (Hai Van Gate).

The side of the gate facing Thua Thien-Hue Province is inscribed with the 3 words “Hai Van Quan” (Hai Van Gate).

There was more interesting history lessons about Vietnam, in particular the Cham kingdom and the Nguyen Dynasty, from Hung once we arrived at the gate.  The information on the 13 kings of the last Nguyen Dynasty was great as it allowed us to appreciate our visit to the Citadel and the imperial tombs in Hue later during our trip.

We saw quite a fair bit of tourists on motor-cycles at the top and along the Hai Van Pass. Apparently, riding along this winding road up and down the sides of the mountain on a motor-bike was made popular in an episode in the Top Gear. Personally, I think there are more exciting and challenging mountain passes than this road.

There were some old bunkers, built during the Vietnam war that can be explored or climbed, at one’s own risk.

View from the top of the Hai Van Pass. On nice days, one can admire Lang Co beach to the north and spot the winding road leading up to the mountain top. Climbing the old crumbling US-built war bunkers is at own risks.

View from the top of the Hai Van Pass. On nice days, one can admire Lang Co beach to the north and spot the winding road leading up to the mountain top. Climbing the old crumbling US-built war bunkers is at own risks.


View of Da Nang city on the South side from the top of Hai Van Pass.

View of Da Nang city on the South side from the top of Hai Van Pass.


We had time to explore the old war bunkers, built by the US during the Vietnam War, as well old stone relics built during the Nguyen dynasties.

Bullets holes and damages caused by bombing during the Vietnam are visible on this old buildings at top of Hai Van Pass.

Bullets holes and damages caused by bombing during the Vietnam are visible on these old buildings.


The top of the Hai Van Pass was our last stop for the tour. On the way down from Hai Van Pass, we were slightly held up by an accident along the narrow mountain road. Some heavy equipment had been dislodged from a large trailer. A mobile crane was on hand to remove the obstacles.

I get to see the cool and level headedness of the local people. No tempers, no impatient honking. Here the locals and just rolled up their sleeves to solve a problem and clear a narrow passage through the obstacles on the road. The motorcycles and cars then took turns to squeeze through and we were soon on our way. 

The Banyan Tree staff that were on the tour with us took the initiatives to call back to the resort to extend the closing time of the Saffron restaurant and buffet lunch for our group.

Overall, it had been an enjoyable day out.


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Visit to the Citadel in the city of Hue at Central Vietnam

25 September 2017 

I decided to spent a couple of days in Hue, a UNESCO World Heritage city well-known for its historic imperial city (Citadel) and imperial tombs.

We went to see the Citadel on the day of our arrival, leaving the whole of our second day in Hue to explore the famous Thien Mu Pagoda and a few of the imperial tombs.

A total of 13 Nguyen emperors ruled Vietnam from 1802 to 1945, with Hue being the capital city. The site for the Citadel was chosen by the first two rulers of the Nguyen dynasty (Gia Long and Minh Mang) based on Chinese geomancy or Feng Shui principles. It is modelled after the Forbidden City in Beijing but also includes military principles to offer greatest protection. It is located on the north-western side of the Huong (Perfume) River, with its main entrance facing the river. Water from the river fills its defensive moats.

We crossed the Perfume River via the Truong Tien Bridge, in front of the Saigon Morin Hotel where we stayed. We met up with our guide for the Citadel tour at the Lac Thien restaurant at 2 PM. From there, we entered the old Hue Imperial City through a narrow arched stone gate, barely wide enough for a big truck to pass through. The road through the gate is shared by pedestrians, motorcycles, cars and other vehicles. This was one of the many gates that provided access to the huge 520 hectares Imperial City.

After passing a waterway which I later found out was the outer moat surrounding the city, we turned left and passed by the Hue War Museum with its collection of old Vietnam War era military equipment on display.  There is free entry to the museum but we just stopped briefly to snap some photos of the tanks, armoured cars, artillery pieces and war planes from the road. A few of the displays looked familiar, such as the Commando V200 armour car, Russian MiG 21, A37 Dragonfly planes

US-built A37 Dragonfly at the Hue War Museum.

US-built A37 “Dragonfly” at the Hue War Museum. The cockpit looks like the head of a dragonfly, doesn’t it?


Russian built MiG-21 at the Hue War Museum.

MiG – 21 fighter plane operated by the North Vietnamese during the war.


Hue War Museum with a collection of old Vietnam War era military equipment on display

An antiquated Commando V200 armoured car. I operated similar vehicles during my military service in Singapore.


Soon after, we caught sight of the walls and moat of the Royal Citadel. The Royal Citadel is a citadel within a citadel.  The square shaped Royal Citadel is protected by its own moat and its main entrance is the massive Cua Ngo Mon, modelled after the Meridian Gate of the Forbidden City in Beijing.


Cua Ngo Mon of Hue Citadel as seen from a distance

Massive Cua Ngo Mon as seen from a distance. 

In front of the gate is the Hue Flag Tower, or Ky Dai, which is hard to miss. The tall 37 meter mast had been destroyed and rebuilt through the times and now proudly flies the state flag.

Ky Dai or Hue Flag Tower.

Ky Dai or Hue Flag Tower.

Cua Ngo Mon of Hue Citadel

In the old days, the Emperor may visit the pavilion on top of the Cua Ngo Mon to deliver important proclamations, watch troop movements and subjects paying homage to him.


Roof of Cua Ngo Mon of Hue Citadel

The roof is decked in yellow (imperial colour), glazed ceramic roof tiles. On the roof tiles are golden dragons, various animals and creatures to ward off evil.


There are five entrances within the massive Moon Gate. Like all palace gates of Imperial China, Korea and Japan, the middle one is reserved only for the Emperor. Anyone caught using that gate would be beheaded! The two, slightly smaller, side entrances were reserved for mandarins, soldiers and horses. The two small arched entrances on the side were for the rest and commoners.

After entering the imposing gate using the left entrance and keeping our heads, we crossed the Bridge of Golden Water (used to be reserved for the Emperor only!), flanked by two ponds.

 Gateway before the Bridge of Golden Water inside the Hue Citadel

We then entered the Thai Hoa Palace (Hall of Supreme Harmony) right after the bridge. This is where the Emperor, along with high ranking mandarin officials, does his “meet the people” sessions and also other important court activities. No photography was allowed inside this building. We could see the throne of the Nguyen emperors, perched high on a platform.

The structure of this building is supported by 80 red lacquered columns made from solid wood from trunks of massive trees.

I am not sure if this story is true.

Our guide told us this building was built in stages.  It was first built as a simple building to appease the official from China who came to inspect the construction. After satisfying the imperial Chinese officials that the palace is not bigger than the one in Imperial China, the Vietnamese extended this building further without his knowledge.

At the back of the building, there is a video showing the construction of the Imperial City and a scaled model of the Imperial Citadel showing the layout.  The almost square area is divided by walls into zones.  The most important zone is the Purple Forbidden City. The Forbidden City is where the emperor and his immediate family reside. It is forbidden to everyone except concubines, servants to the royal family and select members of the imperial court.

Not to be missed is the The Mieu and Hung Mieu compound located in the south western part of the Citadel.

The Mieu and Hung Mieu compound located in the south western part of the Citadel.

Gates to access the temple compound.


Gate to The Mieu and Hung Mieu compound located in the south western part of the Citadel.

Details on one of the gates. A pale shadow of what it was before.


There used to be 9 buildings. Now only 5 remains – the 2 major temples ( The To Mieu and Hung To Mieu), Hien Lam Pavilion, the Soil God temple and the Divine Kitchen.


The Hung Mieu Temple was built by the emperor Minh Mang in the year 1821 and is dedicated to the memory of their ancestors. It is used by the Nguyen court to commemorate the death anniversaries of the emperors.  Attendance by women, including the Empress, was forbidden.

Thế To Miếu or The To Temple –  Its name in Vietnamese is Thế Miếu, or Temple of generations.
The To Temple – Its name in Vietnamese is Thế Miếu, or Temple of generations.
A royal altar in front of the The To Mieu temple.
A royal altar in front of the The To Temple.

The The To Mieu temple contains the altars in memory of the different emperors in the Nguyen dynasty. The one in the middle is for Gia Long, the first emperor.  It is franked by the altar of the second emperor, Minh Mang, on one side and third emperor on the other side. This goes on for the rest of the emperors in the Nguyen dynasty.

Right in front of the The To Mieu temple is the Hien Lam Pavilion.

The nine Dynastic Urns and the Hien Lam Pavilion.

The nine Dynastic Urns and the Hien Lam Pavilion.


There are nine large funerary urns, made entirely in bronze standing in a row.  The urns are decorated with floral motifs and traditional symbols of Vietnamese culture.

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Large funerary urn, made entirely in bronze. The urns have heights of about over 2 meters and weigh about 2 tons each.


They represent 9 of the emperors in Vietnam and in ancient times played an important role in many ceremonies of worship to ancestors. 

There are 4 urns to the left and 4 urns to the right with a larger urn in the centre, facing The To Mieu temple. The centre urn is dedicated to the first emperor of the Nguyen dynasty, Emperor Gia Long.


Stones steps decorated with stone dragons in the The Mieu and Hung Mieu compound.

Stones steps decorated with stone dragons in the Hien Lam Pavilion. Dragon is a common theme in the palace.


Some zones within the Citadel are under restoration and not accessible during our visit. The rain started to come down as we walked pass what was to be the Forbidden City.

Bombs and artillery shells rained down on North Vietnamese forces camped within the Citadel during the Battle for Hue in 1968. The Forbidden Purple City was almost entirely destroyed.

  Forbidden City of Hue

This is what remains.

   Forbidden City of Hue


Thankfully there were some parts that were not completely destroyed or were partially restored.

Covered passageway with exhibits of ancient court documents.

Covered passageway with exhibits of ancient court documents.


Lotus pond within the Citadel.

Lotus pond within the Citadel.


  building in the Hue Citadel


One last place we saw before leaving was the Royal Theatre. Now it is the Hue Traditional Theatre of Art where one could enjoy performances of Hue Court Music, Royal Dance and Theatrical play.

Inside of the Hue Traditional Theatre of Art where once the emperor sat to enjoy performances.

Inside of the Hue Traditional Theatre of Art where once the emperor sat to enjoy performances.


Inside of the Hue Traditional Theatre of Art where once the emperor sat to enjoy performances.

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Beautifully decorated window.


We ended our tour with a simple dinner at the Lac Thien restaurant. 

Walls at the Lac Thien restaurant in Hue. This place seems to be popular with tourists.

Walls at the Lac Thien restaurant. This place seems to be popular with independent travellers and backpackers.


Our guide introduced some local Hue cuisine to us at Lac Thien restaurant.

Banh Cuon – Hue’s speciality rice-steamed rolls with pork and green salad inside. This is to be eaten with peanut dipping sauce. 

Banh Khoai – Hue’s speciality crispy open pancake (like a taco) with fillings of pork, shrimp, eggs, green salad, slice figs. Once again,  this is to be eaten with peanut sauce as a dip.

The restaurant also serves the local noodle soup called Bun Bo Hue but our guide says the more typical Vietnamese beef pho (noodle) is better.

Enjoying local delicacies and a hot bowl of beef pho with a friendly local guide was a good way to end a visit to the Citadel on a wet day.

Saigon Morin Hotel – a good place to stay in Hue.

Saigon Morin Hotel – a historic colonial era hotel location close to the Citadel.

Thankfully, the rain stopped as we finished our dinner. That allowed us to take a slow walk back to our hotel across the river. The Truong Tien Bridge would be a good place to see the sun set across the Perfume (Huong) River, but not on this evening.


Where we stayed in Hue:

The Saigon Morin Hotel is a historic, French colonial-era hotel, located next to the Truong Tien Bridge and Perfume (Huong) River. On Le Loi Road in the city center, it is ideally located for walking to the Citadel, Dong Ba market, shopping, restaurants & bars.

Check latest prices and availability for this hotel when planning a trip to Hue.




 


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