Mizuha-so – one more reason why you should stay overnight in Miyajima

With fast and regular train services like the Shinkasen, both Miyajima and Hiroshima could be visited as a day trip from Osaka, Kyoto or even Tokyo if one started the day really early and end the day really late. I prefer my holidays to be slow and relaxing. Hence I planned my itinerary to include a stay in Miyajima.  Staying overnight in Miyajima was an enjoyable and unforgettable experience.

Why should you stay overnight in Miyajima?

A day trip would only allow a typical visitor to spend a few hours on the island, having travel long distances to get here. Within the few hours, they would snap some photos of the iconic floating torii gate, interact with the deers and maybe do a bit of walking and sample some local cuisine along the Omotesando shopping street. While that in itself is enjoyable, what they would be missing is the magical, peaceful, quiet part of the Miyajima in the late evening and early morning or taking a hike along one of the hiking trails up to Mount Misen.

Another reason why you should stay in Miyajima is to experience a ryokan stay and enjoy one of the best kaiseki dinner served up at the Mizuha-so ryokan.

Mizuha-so is not very big, with a total of 5 rooms located on the second and third floors. We stayed on the 2nd Floor, in a Japanese style room with size of 10 tatami mats, air conditioning, TV with satellite program, Japanese night clothes, toiletries and bath items. Our room has attached toilets but no shower or bath. We had to shower and bath in a shared bath located on the second floor. A little basket was thoughtfully provided to allow us to carry our belongings, bath items and change of clothes to the shared bathroom on the second floor.

 

There are 2 baths at Mizuha-so that each group can use privately.  Since there were not many guests, the bathrooms were available when needed. 

Like a typical Japanese bathroom, it came with a shower area with all the bath items and a big tub. Unfortunately, the plug at the bottom of the huge round metal tub was missing and we could only take a shower and not a soak in the bath tub.

After a refreshing hot shower, dinner was served in the dining room on the ground floor. Besides our group of 2 couples, there was only one other couple.

The dinner is Japanese-style multi course meal with Setouchi fish.  The menu included: Hors d'oeuvre, Sashimi (sliced raw fish), Boiled fish and vegetable, Baked dish, Steak, Tempura, Sushi, Soup, Rice, Dessert etc. The actual dishes served depended on the seasons. I lost track of what I was eating after a few courses but every dish served up was awesome.

The Hors d'oeuvre included prawn with mashed sweet potato, smoked duck with tiny bits of mustard and a small cup of rice wine.

The sashimi was so well presented and included a fish known as the half-beak, tuna, squid. Full marks for presentation and full marks for the freshness and taste of the seafood.

The chef took pride in his creations and we could see him peeping at us from the kitchen. We gave him the thumbs up and he was happy that we were enjoying every dish that was served up. 

Sliced Beef in soup with egg.

Vegetable tempura.

Salmon dish with a stalk of young ginger.

 

Crab sushi and miso soup.

 

Dessert.

Everyone in my group enjoyed the dinner very much. We were then served a hot drink of choice after the exquisite and filling multi-course meal.

The proprietress at the Mizuha-so urged us to do a night time stroll around the waterfront of Miyajima after dinner. That was in our plan anyway and it was magical.  

Lanterns lit the path near the seaside and we could see the brightly lit “Floating” Torii Gate and its reflection shimmering in the water.

 

There was a boat bringing visitors for a night cruise around the Torii Gate and it was disturbing the calm water, creating ripples and waves. The boat finally left and I could take better pictures of the Torii Gate with its reflection on the water.

The Itsukushima Shrine and the Five Story Pagoda were also beautifully lit at night. 

We walked around the shrine to get to the other side of the inlet and see the Floating Torii Gate from a different angle.  None of the residents deer were seen. Only a few visitors were walking around like us, enjoying the night stroll in the calm and windless night. If only it was a starry starry night. Everything would had been perfect.

Tip: it is advisable to book a ryokan or hotel with full board meal plan when staying in Miyajima as food options were limited at night.  Mizuha-so ryokan serves excellent meals and offers visitors a ryokan experience.

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Wonderful Morning on Miyajima Island and a visit to the Itsukushima Shrine

6 June 2016

After a wonderful and awesome dinner at the Mizuha-so last evening, I was wondering if the breakfast would be something special. I was not disappointed.

Again, I must give top marks for food presentation, variety and quality. Once again, we enjoyed the meticulously prepared food.

We checked out of the Mizuha-so ryokan and took a slow walk towards the Itsukushima shrine and its famous torii gate. Miyajima was practically deserted and peaceful in the early morning.

The deer were already up and about.

The tide was up in the morning and the torri gate over the water is one of its kind. This iconic Floating Torii Gate is supposed to the one the 3 best views of Japan.

We goofed around, trying to outdo each other with special photos of the Floating Torii Gate.

We were shooting the gate through the openings in the stone lantern.

 

We circled round the inlet where the Itsukushima Shrine was located. The entrance to the shrine is on the other side of the inlet. We had walked this path after dinner last night but the morning view was very different.

The “floating” Itsukushima Shrine and the Five Storied Pagoda in the morning.

Rickshaw man and a local deer engaging in maintenance activities.

Rear view of the “floating” Itsukushima Shrine.

 

Interesting roof form of the Itsukushima shrine.

We paid a small fee to enter the Itsukushima Shrine from the east entrance. The shrine dates back to 593 and was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

A long corridor led us past the Marodo Shrine, which is the shrine for guest deities, and to the Main Hall.

Along the 270 m long corridor, bronze lanterns were hung on each side. We were practically walking on timber boards, over water.

A small crowd of visitors were outside the main hall, observing a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony. I had never seen such ceremony before, so it was quite interesting.

Traditional Japanese wedding ceremony at the Main Hall of the shrine.

 

3-man band with the traditional wind instruments.

In front of the main hall is the pier where views of the Torii Gate, in alignment with the main hall, could be seen “floating” in the sea. This was the favourite spot for photos and there was an orderly queue formed for visitors to take turns for photo shots.

There was an arched bridge just before the exit on the west side. Exiting the shrine, we were back to where we started in the morning, near our ryokan. So, we had to circle round the inlet again.

By late morning, Miyajima was getting crowded and tour groups had arrived on the island. It was interesting to see a tour leader bribing the local deer with food and managed to line them up for photos with his tour group.  As I said before, the deer would do anything for food.

People on surf boards, rowing around the gate.

After visiting this interesting shrine built on water, we walked through the shopping area of Omotesando Street on the way to the pier. One of the “must-try” food while in Miyajima are oysters. Oyster landed in Hiroshima are very big and tasty. They could be eaten grilled or natural with a touch of lime.

Fresh Miyajima oysters.

Grilled Miyajima oysters.

Look at the size and thickness of the Miyajima oysters! There were a few stores selling them and we ate from two stores. 

 

Another popular local snack is the maple leaf shaped pastries filled with red bean paste called the momiji manju. Fillings could include chocolate, custard, matcha, cheese, chestnut, and even ice cream. We bought one with standard red bean paste, just to try.

Okonomiyaki was also available in one of the restaurants on the island. It was interesting to read the history and cooking methods for this dish that we had tried in Hiroshima.

We boarded the JR ferry and bid farewell to Miyajima with fond memories. We have to travel back to Kyoto from Miyajima.  As we would be passing by Kobe, there was an opportunity to make a quick stop at Shin-Kobe Station for the famous Kobe Beef on the way back to Kyoto!

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